Saturday, May 28, 2011

Shenandoah National Park and Lots of Trail Magic

On Wednesday (5-25) I left at 8:45 AM for a 5 mile hike into Waynesboro on a well worn path.  It was the same path that another hiker left on 45 minutes earlier.  After 15 minutes of hiking, I realized that I had not seen any white blazes so I went back to the shelter.  The unmarked path next to the shelter was the correct trail.  It was marked with a white blaze about 100 yards down the path.  I was glad I got on the right path on the second try.  I arrived in the outskirts of Waynesboro before noon to find trail magic of cold drinks.  I hiked into Waynesboro with two other thru-hikers to Mang's Chinese Garden for lunch.  The buffet was very good for a low price of $7.15.  I capped off my lunch with pie and ice cream.  I went across the street to a Salvation Army store and bought a belt for a dollar, but because it was Wednesday, 1/2 off day, I only paid 50 cents.  What a bargain!  Since I have lost weight on the trail my pants are too loose so now I have solved that problem.  I got a free shower at the YMCA, went to the library and used the internet, and crossed the street to the Grace Lutheran Church where I would spend the night.  At 6:30 PM, they fed hikers dinner of soup, grilled cheese, salad, lasagna, cheesecake and ice cream.  Sleeping there was a problem due to a loud snorer that drove me out of the basement sleeping area to the music room where I slept-sort of-on three padded chair cushions pushed together.  On Thursday (5-26) I was up at 5:30 AM to pack, eat, and take the shuttle to the trail.  After completing the mandatory permit application at the entrance to the Shenandoah National Park, I began to hike at 7:45 AM.  There were no long climbs but many 300-500 ft ascends and descends.  Due to the poor night of sleep, I needed to rest twice in the shade--short naps.  During the hike I crossed Skyline Drive 10 times.  I finally arrived at the Blackrock Hut at 7:15 PM.  The SNP refers to permanent structures for overnight sleeping as a hut rather than a shelter.  I covered 19.9 miles.  Friday (5-27) I began hiking at 7:25 AM on a gorgeous day.  It was cool and clear.  I immediately climbed to 3,100 feet to Blackrock Mountain.  Here is a picture of it.
I again crossed Skyline Drive an additional 10 times.  I saw three southbound hikers who told me about some upcoming trail magic at campsite 55 in the Loft Mountain Campground.  Eventually I arrived there to find a large trailer and a man who worked on the trail for the Potomac AT Club.  He had soft drinks and snacks for us.  After enjoying his hospitality, I walked to a campstore and bought energy bars, chocolate milk, and a pack of Hostess cupcakes.  I started hiking again at 11 AM.  At 4:20 PM I arrived at Smith Roach Gap--yes, not Smith Rd--to enjoy super trail magic.  Every year on the Friday before Memorial Day, a hiking couple (she's hiked the AT twice) sets up two tents with chairs and host a big picnic for thru-hikers.  There was a large amount of food including hotdogs, hamburgers, potato salad, baked beans, donuts, homemade cookies, watermelon and pop.  Wow!  A hikers delight for sure!  There were about a dozen hikers  when I was there enjoying the feast.  Rain was threatening so I hurried about 1 mile to Hightop Hut.  I set up my tent and got water out of the spring and was elated with the day.  I hiked 21.4 miles.

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Dutch Haus

On Friday (5-20) I began hiking at 7:30 AM.  I climbed from 825 ft to 3,372 ft (Bluff Mt).  I had lunch at the Punchbowl Shelter.  I hiked with "Leap" and "Spot" in the afternoon.  I camped and ate dinner with Spot.  He's an older construction worker who has successfully thru-hiked the AT three times with the last time being in 2004.  In addition, he failed to thru-hike two additional times, once because of his injury (stepping off a curb while in Harpers Ferry, WV) and once due to illness of his daughter.  I set up my own campsite just off the AT, about 3 1/2 miles before Brown Mountain Creek Shelter.  I hiked 15.0 miles.  My hike on Saturday (5-21) began at 7:30 AM.  I cooked a late breakfast once I reached the Brown Mountain Creek Shelter.  I saw a nest of birds--Phoebe Fly Catchers.  There was a hiker in the shelter that knows types of birds like I know baseball players!  Here is a picture of them.

I saw my second white-tailed deer and a big groundhog as he crossed a dirt road.  He was 20 feet away and both of us stared at each other for several seconds.  Finally as I reached for my camera, he turned and went the other way.  When he was about 100 feet away, he stopped again, stared at me, and then continued to walk away.  Oh well, he must not have wanted his picture taken!  At 7 PM, I experienced trail magic again.  A day hiker (Jerry Nichols) gave me a bottle of Gatorade and 1 1/2 liters of water as I only had 1/2 liter left.  Thanks to Jerry, I was able to hike for another hour and be hydrated as well.  I camped at 8:15 PM at a designated site called North Fork of Piney River.  On Sunday (5-22) I hiked from 6 AM-8 AM in order to reach the Dutch Haus Bed and Breakfast.  I showered and charged my phone even though I had no service.  The owners did everyone's laundry too!  I went to church at 11 AM.  I was driven by friends of the bed and breakfast owners.  After church the couple drove me back to the Dutch Haus.  Two of their grandkids who were at church with them were also in the car on the way back.  I asked the boy (Nathan) his age.  He said he was three and on his next birthday he would be "this many" as he held up four fingers.  Before I could ask the girl (LeAnne) her age, she said, "I'm six.  Two of him makes one of me!"  It was cute and it made me laugh!  I enjoyed the free lunch given to all thru-hikers and a delicious dinner as well.  I resupplied in the afternoon.  On Monday (5-23) after a hearty breakfast at the Dutch Haus, the owner drove several thru-hikers to a place where we had to climb 900 feet over 1.1 miles just to get back on the trail.  I climbed over The Priest, a mountain with an elevation of 4,063 feet.

Friday, May 20, 2011

The Guillotine and Glasglow, VA

On Tuesday (5-17) I hiked 18.7 miles from 9:40 AM-8 PM on a cool day with eminent rain.  The AT parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway and later Skyline Drive for approximately 200 miles.  It crosses the Blue Ridge Mountains about 10 times.  I had lunch at the Wilson Creek Shelter and planned to camp at Bobblets Gap Shelter but it was full so I hiked another .2 miles. It was raining hard when I found a great, flat, hard tent site so I waited several minutes for the rain to slow down before setting up for the night.  I began hiking on Wednesday (5-18) at 8:20 AM.  I enjoyed trail magic of zucchini bread, peanut butter crackers, and a small box of sugar coated Shredded Wheat which was all washed down with a Pepsi.  The trail magic was left at a road where I though about hitchhiking into a small town to resupply but thanks to the trail magic, I didn't have to!  After lunch at the Bryant Ridge Shelter, I climbed from 1,320 feet to an elevation of 3,520 feet (Floyd Mountain).  It was a nice day but just before I was ready to camp, it rained heavily for 15 minutes.  After the rain stopped, I camped just off the trail past the Cornelius Creek Shelter in a large rhododendron area.  I hiked 18.3 miles.  A year ago on May 18, 2010, I was in Page, AZ and my only beautiful granddaughter (I have four wonderful grandsons too!), Paige Janice Akers, was born!  What a great trip it was to the US Western National Parks!  Thursday (5-19) was a late start day since I didn't get going until 9:15 AM.  Since my campsite was in the middle of lots of rhododendron bushes, it made it difficult to find the trail.  It took me 10 minutes just to get going because I couldn't find the trail!  I climbed Apple Orchard Mountain with an elevation of 4,225 feet.  It is the highest point until the White Mountains in New Hampshire.  Here is a picture of the Guillotine. 
It is an impressive large boulder that is stuck over the AT between a rock formation.  I had lunch at the Thunder Hill Shelter at noon and talked to another thru-hiker, "Rain Gear", who was planning to meet his dad about 15 miles ahead at 6:30 PM at the James River (VA-501).  He offered me a round trip ride into Glasglow, VA where I could resupply.  This was fantastic because no hitchhiking would be needed but 15 miles in six hours was a stretch.  Thank goodness it was largely downhill and well grated and we made it!  After returning back from Glasglow, I hiked until 8 PM and covered 21.8 miles.

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Gene Espy and McAffe Knob

Saturday (5-14) was a fun, interesting, and productive day in Damascus at Trail Days.  I showered, did laundry, and resupplied.  The never-ending saga with my sleeping bag continues!  I resent the sleeping bag back to Cindi AGAIN!  This time it is for good!  The sleeping bag that has been sent back and forth is a 30 degree sleeping bag but now that the weather is getting warmer, I bought a 45 degree sleeping bag.  It's smaller and lighter weight which is always a good thing.  I also bought more Aquamira--the water treatment.  The annual hiker parade brought all the "crazies" out in full force!  Quite a few dressed wildly and carried large squirt guns and water balloons while in the parade.  I met Gene Espy.  He is an 89-year-old man who was the second person to ever thru-hike the trail.  He did it in 1951--60 years ago!!  Earl Shaffer, now deceased, was the first person to thru-hike in 1948.  Here is our picture and you can check out my beard too!

It rained on and off all day.  I met up with Swamp Dawg and got a chance to talk to him for awhile.  He is doing well and hiking with two men and two women.  He is averaging 10-12 miles/day and having fun.  He is a great guy and I miss him but I'm about 160 miles ahead of him.  I know we'll continue to be friends long after this adventure is over.  On Sunday (5-15) there was more rain overnight.  I expected to leave Trail Days at 10 AM to return back to Catawba, VA where I was picked up on Friday.  Instead we didn't leave Damascus until 12:30 PM.  It took until 5:30 PM to get back due to an accident that tied up traffic for 10-15 miles on I-81.  So at 5:35 PM, I started my brief hike for the day.  I reached McAfee Knob, said to provide the best view in VA.  It was spectacular!!  Here I am in the picture.

At 8:15 PM I reached Campbell Shelter after hiking 4.4 miles for the day.  I set up my tent in the shelter since there was only one other person in it.  There were no mice to worry about since I was inside my tent.  I began hiking at 7:35 AM on Monday (5-16).  I only made it 40 yards from the shelter when I took my first and only tumble of the day.  I stepped on a piece of tree bark and down I went.  Other than mud on my pant leg, I was fine.  After lunch fatigue hit, and at 1:30 PM I found a shaded spot right next to the trail.  I put down my Tyvek sheet, wadded up my jacket as a pillow, and took an hour nap--refreshing!  At 5 PM I reached Daleville, VA and had pizza and salad at Pizza Hut.  I expected to hike a few more miles but the sky looked threatening.  Right across the street was a Howard Johnson motel and I saw a sign that a hot breakfast was included for only $40.10, tax included.  This also gave me a chance to shower, charge my phone, dry out my gear, sleep in a bed, and have a decent breakfast in the morning.  I was sold!  I hiked 15.4 miles.  After 8 weeks (56 days) I've had 4 non-hiking days and have gone 718.6 miles averaging 12.83 miles/day. 

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Keffer Oak and Audie Leon Murphy Memorial


This is Keffer Oak and it is the largest tree on the southern part of the AT.  It is about 300 years old and a few years ago the girth measured more than 18 feet!

On Monday (5-9) after packing and having a breakfast of cereal with blueberries and delicious french toast, Dan drove me back to Pearisburg to resume my hike.  I began hiking at 9:30 AM and had a long climb in the early afternoon.  I took a refreshing nap after the climb.  I tented at Symms Gap Meadow.  I had a great view of a West Virginia town about five miles away on the VA/WV border.  I hiked only 11.9 miles, as the backpack was very heavy with plenty of food.  After seven weeks, I have hiked 46 days, taken three no hiking days, and have gone 637.8 miles for an average of 13.0 miles/day for 49 days.  I'm very happy about how far I have been able to go!  On Tuesday (5-10) I started hiking at 6:40 AM.  I had been out of water since Monday night.  The nearest water was 6.5 miles ahead.  I saw another large black snake in the middle of a very narrow part of the trail.  I had to touch his tail with my hiking stick to get him to move out of the way.  I fell while I was trying to get over a large tree that was blocking the path.  I wasn't hurt but I got a little muddy.  I took a nap in a shaded area in the early afternoon.  I had a big climb (1,000+ feet in just 1.3 miles) that was very challenging.  I ate my dinner of mashed potatoes and salmon with the handle of my toothbrush!  I couldn't find my spoon or fork after looking for 10 minutes so the handle had to do!  I gave some snacks away to some hikers when I got to the shelter to lighten my load.  I had no cell phone service.  I stopped hiking at 6:50 PM after covering 14.2 miles, as rain was eminent.  There were heavy thunderstorms overnight.  On Wednesday (5-11) I began hiking again at 6:40 AM.  Once again I had no water from the night before.  I hiked about 5 miles and found a spring with water coming out of a rock.  I drank the water since I was out of Aquamira (water purifier).  There was trail magic along the way which always brightens my day!  I saw another box turtle on the trail.  I fell on a wet rock which was really a step but thankfully, again, I wasn't hurt.  I stopped hiking at 8 PM as it started to rain.  I tented directly on the AT, the only time I have done that.  I went 18.3 miles.  It was a long but successful day.  Thursday (5-12) was cloudy and foggy all day.  I had a 1,600 foot climb in the early afternoon and visited the Audie Leon Murphy Monument.  

Rain and thunder started at 3:30 PM.  I stopped hiking at 5 PM and actually set up my tent inside a shelter.  I covered 15.9 miles.  I got an early start by hiking at 6 AM on Friday (5-13).  I saw a third box turtle.  I had two difficult ascents and an especially dangerous one at the Dragon's Tooth.  It was VERY rocky, steep, and rugged. If I would have fallen, it was very likely I would have been injured--it was that extreme. I hiked until 12:45 PM covering 12.6 miles and met Li'l Bit (Wendy Palmer, a thru-hiker from 2004, a friend of my cousin, Pat, in FL) and she took me and three other hikers to Trail Days (a big hiker festival) back in Damascus, VA.  It should a fun weekend!

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Pearisburg, VA

After a very long and cold night in the shelter on Thursday, I hiked from 7 AM-5 PM and covered 16.8 miles.  By mid morning the sun came out and it was a beautiful day.  I met a section hiker (Jerry Lehman) and I may see him again when I travel through PA.  He lives about an hour north of Bake Oven Knob, PA.  This is how I REALLY spend most of my time on the trail.  Ha ha!  I came across this on the trail and it made me laugh!
















Friday (May 6) was my longest day of hiking to date--24.5 miles.  It took me from 6:30 AM-7 PM.  I hiked a long way so I could meet friends at a certain spot on Sunday.  Once again the weather was great.  I ate dinner and resupplied at a small general store 1/2 mile off the trail.  On Saturday (May 7) I hiked from 6:30 PM-1:30 PM and reached Woods Hole Hostel.  I only went 12.9 miles but the second part of the hike was a difficult climb and very rocky.  I was very happy to get my sleeping bag back and threw out the space blanket which kept getting wet with condensation.  I showered and ate a delicious dinner at the hostel but I opted to stay in my tent that night and it was very rainy.  On Sunday (May 8) I awoke early and packed my backpack up while I was still in my tent to try and keep my gear dry.  The rain stopped right before breakfast.  I left the hostel at 9:10 AM and walked a 1/2 mile back uphill to the AT.  I hiked 11.5 miles into Pearisburg, VA and met Dan and Vangie Gordon.  I toured VA Tech in Blacksburg and had lunch at O'Charley's in Christianburg where they live.  At their house I was able to shower and do laundry which are such blessings!  I resupplied at Kroger's and they served me a wonderful steak dinner and pie for dessert.  Seeing people I know along the trail is wonderful!

Thursday, May 5, 2011

A Birthday Party, Lack of Trail Markers, Another Snake, and Cold

On Monday (5-2) the weather was quite nice again.  When I reached Partnership Shelter at 4 PM, I expected to order pizza.  There is a road 1/10 of a mile away where deliveries are made.  Instead I ate birthday cake, ice cream, Doritos, pie, and drank two Cokes.  This was all bought by "Portrait" who was celebrating his 30th birthday.  He walked to town by himself and bought the party goods and got a ride back to the shelter.  His trail name is due to his large camera he carries and his desire to take pictures, especially of hikers.  I had never met him previously.  He is an extremely fast hiker and has a custom made lightweight backpack that carries only 14-18 pounds.  It looks like plastic grocery bags attached together!  At 4:30 PM I continued hiking due to the good weather and I finished 22 miles at 7:30 PM.  Once again I set up my tent just off the AT.  After exactly six weeks I am pleased that my average miles per day has gone up to 12.7 and that includes the three days of no hiking.  On Tuesday (5-3) my hike began at 6:50 AM.  I stopped for breakfast in Atkins, VA and resupplied at the Exxon Mart across the road.  White blazes on the AT are generally well marked with one major exception.  When there is a major road to cross, the blazes seem to be scarce or nonexistent.  I headed the wrong way because I was following the white reflectors on the road because they look like the blazes.  When I asked some road construction workers 1/4 mile down the road, they told me I was going the wrong way.  As I headed in the right direction, I still couldn't find any blazes for quite awhile--about 1/2 mile.  After lunch at a shaded area near a creek, I took out my Tyvek ground cover and took an hour nap!  It took me 43 days to get my first nap!  In the late afternoon I was surprised to see a big black snake on the path.  He slithered off the trail and within 20 seconds he was in a hole in a down tree and had totally disappeared.  If I hadn't seen him enter the tree, I would have never known he was there.  It gave me the creeps.   At 4:30 PM the skies began to darken and rain was approaching.  I stopped hiking at 5:30 PM and set up my tent just off the trail.  By 6:30 PM it was raining and continued all night.  I hiked 14 miles.  On Wednesday (5-4) I began hiking at 8 AM.  I found some trail magic of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, drinks, and snacks.  After lunch I climbed about 1 1/2 hours as the elevation went from 2,380 feet to 4,409 feet.  I stayed in the Chestnut Knob Shelter.  This was only the fourth time I actually stayed in a shelter.  Usually I put my tent up near it but it was very cold and hailing so I stayed in it instead.  There were seven us of in it.  This shelter was enclosed but most of the time shelters only have three sides and a roof.  I slept intermittently through the night as I was very cold.  Condensation inside my space blanket continues to be a problem and I will be very glad when I get my sleeping bag back this weekend!!

He didn't send any pictures this time but these were taken two days before he left back in March.  We were celebrating with my parents and my sister's family for his 67th birthday and also wishing him well on his adventure.  Here he is with Paige and below are Evan, Bradley, and Ryan.  Blake is missing.

Monday, May 2, 2011

TN/VA Picture, Wild Animals, Weight Check, and Lots of Food!


On Thursday (4-28) I decided to take a zero hiking day and resupplied at a grocery store which had dry ice in the refrigerated section.  There was a sign on the door that said DON'T OPEN because they were trying to preserve the food.  It seemed like very few businesses in Damascus have generators.  I sent my sleeping bag to my daughter to cut space and weight and bought a "space blanket"-shiny, thin, silver blanket they give runners after a long race.  On Friday (4-29) while we were sleeping in the hostel, the power was restored.  I weighed myself before I left the hostel and I weighed 143 pounds.  I started the hike weighing 165 pounds.  This weight loss seems to be similar to others.  I hiked from 7:45 AM-4:30 PM and went 15.8 miles.  I stayed at the Lost Mountain Shelter.  This was the first day I felt extremely tired in the afternoon.  On Saturday (4-30) condensation developed inside my space blanket.  I hiked 17.4 miles from 6:45 AM until 6:00 PM.  I set up my tent at my own campsite near the AT after passing the Grayson Highland State Park.  I saw wild horses and the most breathtaking views of the whole adventure to date.  The trail was very rugged and rocky but the climb was well worth it.  It was spectacular!  There was no cell phone service.  On Sunday (5-1) condensation developed again inside my space blanket creating concern that I shouldn't have sent my daughter my Marmot sleeping bag.  She is sending it back to me this week.  I hiked from 6:45 PM-3:30 PM and covered 16.0 miles.  I saw big horned steers grazing right along the trail.  There were 10-15 animals around but here's a picture of a few of them.
For dinner I ate a medium pizza all by myself.  I followed that up with cherry pie, ice cream, a Coke, and the best chocolate milkshake all served at Jerry's Restaurant which is two miles off the trail.  Yum yum!  After checking the internet, I had a Klondike bar and another Coke before leaving. A former hiker and trail angel drove me from the trail to the restaurant and back again.  I walked 1/4 mile to the Troutdale Baptist Church Hostel.  It was quite nice and I was the only occupant for the night.  After I showered, I listened to the radio and heard the announcement that Osama bin Laden was killed.  Once again, I had no cell phone service.  Monday (5-2) I was back at the same restaurant when it opened at 7 AM.  After a breakfast of biscuits and gravy, two eggs, sausage, toast, oatmeal and coffee, the trail angel (Gary) drove me back to where I had finished walking yesterday.  I've gone 515 miles.