New Boots and the 2,000 Mile Mark

We started our hike on Saturday (8-20) at 7:10 AM on yet another gorgeous day.  We climbed S. Crocker Mountain (4,039 ft), descended 400 ft, and then climbed N. Crocker Mountain at 4,228 ft.  We began a 2,800 ft descent over the course of five miles to reach Stratton, ME.  We got a ride at the trailhead to the Stratton Motel.  We did our laundry and enjoyed dinner after hiking 8.4 miles for the day.  On Sunday (8-21) we took a zero hiking day.  We had breakfast at a diner across from the motel and then resupplied at a grocery store next door.  We bought enough food to last us for four days which will get us into Caratunk, ME.  We also bought an additional four days worth of food and sent it to Caratunk to get us from Caratunk to Monson, ME.  Caratunk doesn't have a grocery store.  We will pick up our food shipment at a lodge on Thursday evening.  My Scarpa boots are finally shot.

These excellent boots took me 2,000 miles but unfortunately, won't take me to the end.  They have fallen apart and the tred on the bottom is very worn.  After lunch the motel owner drove us to Rangeley, ME so I could go to an outfitter and purchase new boots.  I bought Merrell hiking boots this time.  On Monday (8-22) the motel owner drove us back to the trail at 7 AM.  There was a lot climbing as we crossed three peaks of the Bigelow Mountains: South Horn (3,831), West Peak (4,145), and the Avery Peak (4,090).  After the initial ascent to the South Horn, we descended 600 ft. each time before finally reaching Avery Peak.  The sun was shining and it was nice outside when we reached the top of the South Horn.  This is the West Peak.

When we reached the second and third peaks, the weather quickly changed to cold and windy and a light rain started.  A jacket was essential.  We camped at 5 PM after hiking 10.4 miles.  After 154 days (22 weeks) I have hit the 2,000 mile mark!  I have hiked 2,003.5 miles for an average of 13.0 miles per day.    

Under 200 Miles To Go!

Tuesday (8-16) was a rainy morning.  The hostel owner drove us back to the trail at 8 AM.  We started with wet feet from the day before.  With two days of rain, the AT resembled a creek rather than a trail.  The trail was muddy, slippery, and ugly.  The roots were wet and to be avoided at all cost.  Roots are enemy number one because it is so easy to trip over even a small one, if you aren't watching your every step.  We climbed Old Blue Mountain with an elevation of 3,600 ft.  There were plenty of rock scrambles, bars, and ladders.  Bars and ladders are permanently cemented on some of the big boulders so you can get up and over the rocks.  After a long and difficult descent we climbed Bemis Mountain.  We were glad to see the day end at
5 PM when we reached the Bemis Mountain Lean-to.  We hiked 8.7 miles.  Wednesday started out at 7 AM on a nice day.  The morning was difficult with a steep descent of 1,300 ft and then immediately an ascent of 1,000 ft.  Again, bars and ladders were necessary several times.  The afternoon was easier than the morning so that was a treat.  We reached a campsite at 5:30 PM where we tented for the night.  We went 12.9 miles.  Thursday was another pleasant day.  We climbed over Saddleback Mountain in the afternoon.  Here is the beautiful view from the top of the mountain.

Next up was The Horn Mountain.  Both are 4,000+ ft mountains.  We had breathtaking views of Maine in all directions.  Then we descended into Redington Stream Campsite at 5 PM where we tented.  We were the only hikers there.  Maine is a great state for R&R--not rest and relaxation but roots and rocks!  We hiked 13.2 miles.  We were blessed again on Friday with yet another beautiful day.  This was the fourth day in a row of good weather, which is unusual.  The day started with climbing Saddleback Junior Mountain.  It is called Junior because the elevation is "only" 3,655 ft vs Saddleback being 4,120 ft.  We had an early lunch at 11 AM at a stream we forded.  So far we have successfully forded three with seven to go.  The mud is still a slight problem but far better than earlier in the week.  At 3 PM we stopped at Spaulding Mountain Shelter.  We decided to eat and take a short rest.  We resumed hiking at 4 PM and hiked 5.1 more miles to make it easier for us to reach Stratton, Maine on Saturday afternoon.  We finally finished our hiking day at 7:45 PM and completed 15.4 miles.  We have 196.3 miles until the end!

Pilgrim's Leg Infection and Trail Food

Friday (8-12) started for us at 6:40 AM with a steep 500 ft climb and several rock scrambles, all while there was a swirling 50 mph wind.  It was misty with poor visibility.  We descended 2,500 ft before we climbed back up 2,300 ft over Baldpate Mountains East and West.  I took this picture from Baldpate West while I was looking back at Baldpate East.

We finally descended 1,500 ft to Frye Notch Lean-to (shelter) where we tented after going 10.4 miles.  We started our day on Saturday at 7 AM on a cool day.  We reached East B Hill Road where the Pine Ellis Hostel picked us up at 10:45 AM.  We showered, did laundry, and had lunch at a general store.  Pilgrim had a large (size of a softball) red area on his leg with a small cut in the middle.  We stopped at a pharmacy and the pharmacist looked at his leg and advised him to see a doctor.  In the late afternoon, he went to the hospital and he arrived back to the hostel at 10 PM.  He felt much better after his IV antibiotic treatment.  On Sunday (8-14) we expected to start hiking in the morning but that didn't happen.  When Pilgrim was at the hospital on Saturday, the doctor told him to come back on Sunday for a second round of the IV antibiotic.  He will also take an oral antibiotic for several more days.  All three of us have had different health problems on the trail.  I had the injured ankle, Pilgrim had the leg infection, and Deadman suffered hypothermia back in Georgia.  When Deadman got to Mountain Crossings Hostel in Blairsville, GA at Neel's Gap, all his gear had been wet for two full days. He stumbled into the hostel and he immediately was given a bed to rest.  The hostel operator told the other hikers, "There is a dead man in there."  Hence, the trail name Deadman was born.  On Monday (8-15) the hostel owner shuttled us back to the AT at 7 AM.  Soon after the hike began, the rain started and it didn't quit all day.  The trail was wet, muddy, rocky, and as slippery as ice.  Everyone fell at least once.  When we finally reached S. Arm Road at 3:15 PM, the same hostel owner picked us up once again.  We hiked 10.1 miles.  After 21 weeks (147 days) I have hiked 1,934.5 miles for an average of 13.2 miles per day.  We have 246.5 miles until the end.  I hope to be done and back home in Ohio by the middle of September.

Some people have asked me what I eat on the trail.  When I first started hiking, I "cooked" in the evening.  I made mashed potatoes, Mountain House freeze dried dinners which are dehydrated meals, like astronaut food, and Knorr packaged foods.  After two months of doing this, I no longer felt the need for a hot meal since the weather was quickly heating up.  At the end of May, I sent my stove and pan home.  Now I live on peanut butter/Nutella and cheese on a bagel with every meal.  At breakfast I drink two packages of Carnation Breakfast Essentials, formerly Carnation Instant Breakfast.  At lunch and dinner I drink Crystal Light lemonade and have Oreos for dessert.  I also eat dried fruits, Snickers, and various energy/granola bars.  Of course, I look forward to going to a restaurant when the opportunity comes up.  When we are on the trail, we typically take about a 40 minute lunch break and a few five minute breaks throughout the day.  The rest of the time--surprise, surprise, we hike!

Maine

I started hiking on Tuesday (8-9) at 6:20 AM after breakfast at the hostel.  I climbed Mount Hayes (2,555 ft) and then Cascade Mountain. (2,631).  The climbs were not as tough as the White Mountains but tough enough.  I was glad to get to Gentian Pond Shelter at 4 PM.  It is nice to have friends to hike with again.  I hiked 11.8 miles.  We started the day on Wednesday (8-10) at 6:40 AM.  It rained for most of the day which makes things that much more difficult.  We were either climbing or descending over slippery rocks, mud, and roots all day.  Each of us fell numerous times but thankfully no one was hurt.  At 10:30 AM we entered Maine, the 14th and last state on the trail!

As you can see from the sign, it is 281.4 miles to reach Mt. Katahdin, the end of the AT.  Maine is second in the number of miles on the trail with only Virginia having more.  We went over Goose Eye Mountain and had numerous rock scrambles.  We had heard from several other hikers that southern Maine is as tough or tougher than the White Mountains were in New Hampshire.  We finally finished a challenging day at 7:10 PM and completed 9.5 miles.  We got a late start on Thursday (8-11) as we wanted to make sure the weather was favorable.  We entered the much talked about Mahoosuc Notch.  For 1.1 miles the AT climbs over, crawls under, squeezes between, slides down, and jumps huge rocks.  There were many times the terrain looked impassible when I first glanced.  Many of the ascents are actually rock climbing and someone would be seriously hurt if he/she fell.  At times we had to pass our backpacks between each other just to get through the rock obstacles.  This section is notoriously known as the toughest mile on the entire trail.  It took us more than 3 hours just to go 1.1 miles.  Here is a picture where there is ice/snow between the rocks, even in August!

We reached Speck Pond Shelter at 5:30 PM and the three of us tented on a group tent pad.  We hiked only 5.1 miles over nine hours but we have now finished one of the most difficult sections of the AT. 

Hiking Again with "Pilgrim" and Now "Deadman" Too

This is how I spent my day on Friday (8-5)--hiking over rock, after rock, after rock.  This is the trail, believe it or not, and it was like this for almost the entire seven miles.  It seemed like 21 miles though.  It was the most physically and mentally exhausting day since I started in Georgia back in March.

I was so glad to finally reach the hut and be done for the day.  I expected to do kitchen work at Madison Spring Hut for my work-for-stay obligation.  Instead, the hut manager asked me give a talk to guests/vacationers on thru-hiking the AT.  I spoke for about 10 minutes and then answered several questions.  People were very attentive and seemed to be quite interested.  Several people told me they thoroughly enjoyed it.  I slept on an air mattress on the floor again as did two other hikers who also did work-for-stay.  I started hiking on Saturday (8-6) at 6 AM and went from the hut (4,300 ft) and over and down Mount Madison (5,366 ft).  Here is a picture looking back after I had already climbed it.  You can see the narrow dirt path in the front of the picture.  That is the AT.

When I reached Pinkham Notch, I was picked up by a hostel shuttle.  When Pilgrim and Deadman finally arrived at the hostel, I was able to surprise them!  They have been hiking together since I got hurt on July 28 and they were really happy to see me.  Deadman is a great guy about my age who lives in Georgia.  They had planned a zero hiking day for Sunday and agreed to take another zero day on Monday so I could catch up with them since I was two hiking days behind.  The three of us hope to finish the AT together.  Pray that this happens!  In the evening we resupplied and enjoyed dinner while we rehashed what has happened since we had last seen each other.  I hiked 7.8 miles.  On Sunday (8-7) the hostel shuttle took me back to Pinkham Notch at 8 AM to resume my hike.  I hiked from Pinkham Notch (2,050 ft) on a rainy and dark day up Wildcat Mountain (4,422 ft).  I had to rock scramble (rock climb, use my hands) the entire way.  In one very precarious scramble position, in my head I could hear my deceased mother say, "Bobby, get down from there!"  I thought to myself, "I'd be glad to!"  I descended to Carter Notch Hut (3,350 ft) for lunch and then climbed Carter Dome (4,832 ft).  Again, I went 7.8 miles.  I started hiking at 6 AM on Monday (8-8).  Rain started mid-morning and continued intermittently for several hours.  I descended to 3,915 ft, climbed back up to 4,618 ft, descended again to 3,100 ft, and then climbed to 4,000 ft.  My final descent of the day was to 780 ft when I reached the hostel at 4:45 PM.  I hiked 13.3 miles.  After 20 weeks (140 days) I have hiked 1,880.4 miles for an average of 13.4 miles per day.  Once again my ankle is getting a little bit better with each passing day.  I hope it is 100% soon.  I plan to wear the ankle brace for extra support all the way to the end of the trail--300 more miles!  I'll be entering Maine, the last state on the AT, on Wednesday (8-10). 

Lots of Elevations and the Ankle is Improving!

The shuttle picked up several hikers at Chet's Hostel on Monday (8-1) and took us to Franconia Notch.  It was a long day of hiking that lasted from 7:10 AM-7:45 PM.  Franconia Notch has an elevation of 1,450 feet.  I climbed Little Haystack Mountain (4,800 ft) where I had lunch on a rock.  I then climbed over Mt. Lincoln (5,089 ft) and finally over Mt. Lafayette (5,260).  I stealth camped (made my own campsite) at Garfield Pond (3,860 ft).  I went 9.2 miles on a dry day although rain was in the forecast.  I started hiking on Tuesday (8-2) at 7 AM when I rock scrambled (had to use my hands to get up the mountain) Mt. Garfield (4,500 ft).  The descent down to the Galehouse Hut (3,800 ft) where I had lunch was super steep and rugged.  I continued to rock scramble all day.  Rain continued on and off until evening.  During the afternoon I climbed over the South Twin Mountain (4,902 ft) and descended to Mt. Guyot (4,580 ft) soon after.  I stealth camped just inches off the trail.  Unfortunately I had to put my tent up in the rain--not fun!  I went 8.6 miles.  I started hiking at 7:30 AM on Wednesday (8-3).  Packing wet clothes and my wet tent was difficult as I was trying to keep the rest of my gear dry.  Again, I had to do lots of rock scrambling and then it suddenly turned relatively flat and rock free-it was great!  I made it to Saco River (1,277 ft) and I began to partially climb the Webster Cliffs.  I stealth camped again just inches from the trail.  I went 11.0 miles.  On Thursday (8-4) I started at 6:30 AM and finished going over the Webster Cliffs (3,350 ft) and then I tackled Mt. Webster (3,910 ft) followed by Mt. Jackson (4,052 ft).  In the afternoon I climbed Mt. Pierce (4,312 ft) and then Mt. Franklin (5,004 ft).  I finally reached Lake of the Clouds Hut (shelter) at 4 PM and I was able to get a work-for-stay arrangement.  Normally, someone staying at the hut pays $90, which includes dinner and breakfast.  I'll sleep in the hut on the floor on my air mattress and have dinner and breakfast.  In return, I'll wipe up the tables after dinner--easy!  There are only four "jobs" available at this hut.  I hiked 10.0 miles.

My injured ankle has slowly been improving each day, which has been a huge blessing.  The pain has subsided but it is still quite weak.  I pray it continues to heal and that I don't fall and hurt it again.

Slowly Moving Ahead

After a rainy night on Friday, Saturday morning (7-30) was damp, windy, and cold.  Two southbound hikers brought my Aircast brace to me.  They were at the same hostel in Lincoln, NH  where I called for help and where I had stayed  last week.  The Aircast gives my ankle extra support and restricts side-to-side movement.  I spent at least an hour walking with the cast on at the campsite.  It definitely helps but the ankle is still tender and weak.  I walked about 1/4 the speed of a normal person.  Later in the afternoon my food request of a bag of bagels was met as yet another hiker arrived with them.  The hiking community is like a second family to me and we try to help each other as much as possible.  After 2 1/2 days of no hiking, I began hiking on Sunday (7-31) at 6:15 AM.  Much of the trail was steep with rugged descents and unfortunately, it is going to be this way for the rest of the journey.  The time when I need to be 100% is now so I am trying to keep moving but very slowly and carefully.  I reached Franconia Notch at 1 PM and Chet's Hostel at 1:30 PM.  I hiked 4.8 miles.